Skip to main content

Buying & care

Modest Swimwear & Burkini Guide: How to Choose

Modest swimwear has moved a long way from the shapeless early designs. Today it is technical kit — quick-dry, chlorine-resistant, sun-protective — cut to cover. Here is what the different styles are, and what actually matters when buying.

Burkini, swim dress or separates?

The burkini

A three-piece set: a long-sleeve tunic top, full-length leggings, and an attached or separate swim hood. It gives the fullest coverage of any style and is the closest thing to a standard for modest swimming.

The swim dress

A tunic or skirted top worn over leggings, without the hood. Popular with women who swim in a private or women-only setting, or who prefer to wear their own swim cap.

Separates

A long-sleeve swim top and swim leggings bought individually. The most flexible option, because you can size the top and bottom differently — which matters more in swimwear than in almost any other category.

What actually matters when buying

Fabric weight and opacity

The single most common complaint about cheap modest swimwear is that it turns semi-transparent when wet. Look for a stated fabric weight, and prefer polyamide or polyester blends with elastane over thin nylon. A lined body panel is a good sign.

Drag

More fabric means more water resistance. If you swim lengths rather than wade, look for a closer-cut top and fitted cuffs. Loose, floaty designs are comfortable to stand in and hard work to swim in.

UPF rating

Many modest swimsuits carry UPF 50+, which is a genuine advantage of full coverage — no reapplying sunscreen to your arms every hour. If sun protection is part of why you are buying, check the rating is stated rather than implied.

Chlorine resistance

Pool water destroys standard elastane over a season. If you swim regularly indoors, a chlorine-resistant fabric costs more and lasts several times longer.

Getting the fit right

  • Swim fabric stretches when wet. Size for a snug dry fit, not a comfortable one.
  • Check the rise on the leggings while seated — this is where most coverage failures happen.
  • The hood should sit close at the hairline. A loose hood fills with water and drags backwards.
  • Raise your arms fully in the changing room. A top that rides up at the waist when you reach will do the same in the water.

Caring for it

Rinse in cold fresh water immediately after every swim, before the chlorine or salt dries in. Never wring it. Dry flat in shade — direct sun and radiators break down elastane faster than swimming does. Skip the washing machine and skip fabric softener, which coats the fibres and kills the stretch.

What to wear over it

Most people want a layer between the changing room and the water. A light kimono or a cotton kaftan works well and dries fast — see kaftan, abaya and kimono compared. Avoid heavy jersey, which holds water and stays cold.

For beach holidays more broadly, our modest travel guide covers packing for hot climates.

Frequently asked questions

What is a burkini?
A burkini is a modest swimsuit made of three parts: a long-sleeve tunic top, full-length swim leggings, and an attached or separate swim hood. It gives full coverage while using the same quick-dry, chlorine-resistant fabrics as ordinary technical swimwear.
Does modest swimwear go see-through when wet?
Cheaply made swimwear can. Look for a stated fabric weight, a polyamide or polyester blend with elastane rather than thin nylon, and a lined body panel. A lining is the most reliable sign that a suit will stay opaque in the water.
How should a burkini fit?
Snug when dry, because swim fabric stretches once wet. Check the rise on the leggings while seated, make sure the hood sits close at the hairline so it does not fill with water, and raise your arms fully — if the top rides up in the changing room it will do the same when you swim.